Flat & Happy: Subcutting


It’s time for more Flat & Happy! This series offers little snippets and tips for patchwork to be flat and happy. Obviously, this is how I do things, but there are so many great ways to patchwork, so do what works for you! Previously, I talked about cutting strips of width of fabric; today, I’m going to talk about submitting them. First, we need to clean up the selvages. Line up your ruler so that the bottom edge of your fabric is straight along a line of the ruler. I tend to use an 1/8″ or 1/4″ line because it is easier to see. This will insure that your square is square and not trapezoidal.

You want to cut off as little as possible while also ensuring that you got all the selvage. Cut!

Turn the piece around so the clean edge is on the left. Line up the left side of the fabric on the ruler along the line of the measurement that you’d like to cut. Make certain that the bottom of your fabric is lined up along a line of the ruler. Remember, this will insure that your square is square and not trapezoidal. Cut!

Perfect squares! Obviously, this will work for squares and rectangles.

xo LC

Label Contest!

Are you on Instagram? It’s a fun little world full of quilty inspiration. I post there a lot, especially with process photos, my daily happenings and lots of Mack the Chihuahua. There are tons of things to see; it’s Pinterest straight from the creator. 

 So why am I yammering on about Instagram?! There’s a contest! Custom Labels 4U is giving away 250 labels. They make gorgeous woven labels.   

It’s pretty simple, you go to Ohhowsweetco on Instagram and click on my logo. And like the picture. That’s it! You do have to be a registered Instagram user. Whichever logo has the most likes on Sunday at 9 pst will win! Please vote for me! And tell your friends:)

xo LC

Terrific Tool Thursday: Pins


Often Tuesdays and Thursdays sneak up on me and I’m brainstorming for a tip or tool. So, I’ll send out texts to quilty peeps to see if they have any ideas. Tonight I texted my friend Amy and she suggested PINS. I know that you’re probably thinking, “Really?? Pins. Does that really qualify as a TERRIFIC tool?!” Well, if you’ve ever taken a class from me, you know I’m big on using the RIGHT pins.(Amy has been exposed to my thoughts on the subject.) There are no bad pins but there are pins that aren’t good for what you’re doing. No matter what, you want a cute pinnie:)


For Quilting: You want a sharp, super fine pin. It should slide into the fabric like butter. Seriously, no effort. You want glass head so the iron cannot melt them. My favorites are these long ones from Clover and these red ones! These are the pins I use the most. If you’ve never tried them, do it! You’ll never look back.

For Bags/Interfaced Fabric: I tend to use Clover Wonderclips more, but if you’re going with pins, opt for a thicker shaft. This will prevent bent pins. Iron safe is a bonus here as well. I like these cute button head pins from Dritz. The flower head pins also go in this category. I know they say “quilting”, but if you try the super fine quilting pins, you’ll notice the difference. 

For Appliqué: I love these from Clover. They’re short and strong. And perfect for appliqué. I also use them to pin ribbons in my stash:)

For Other Pinning Needs: I use these dressmaker pins from Dritz to pin my stash to comic book boards. (Google it, there are a million tutorials.) They’re great for that, but not great for quilting/bag making/appliqué. They’re also great for…dressmaking!

You have to find what works for you! If you’re pins are blunt, toss them. It’s not worth damaging fabric to keep a crappy pin. Happy pinning!

xo LC

Terrific Tip Tuesday: Ironing Vinyl


It’s time for another Terrific Tip! I love to use vinyl for bags, but it’s nearly impossible to store without it getting a little beat up. Those wrinkles can be frustrating and lead to a lot of waste if you try to cut around them. I’ve found that if I set my iron to a low to medium heat and lay a piece of fabric on the vinyl, I can gently iron out the wrinkles. It doesn’t take much!! Once it heats up, it flattens out.


Here are the results! Works like a charm.



xo LC

Charger Bag TUTORIAL

It’s time for another quick tutorial! Whenever I travel, I feel like I have chargers out the wazoo. Here’s a SUPER quick tutorial to make a little bag to hold all those cords. Today is also Make & Take night at Village Fabric Shop from 5-7. Amy will have everything you need to make this bag for $6. You’ll get to pick your fabrics!


Finished Size: 7 1/2 x 8 1/2″

1. Supplies: You need two fat eighths and 44″ of ribbon that is 1/4-1/2″ wide. I constructed the bag with 40 wt Aurifil. I chose these two fabrics from the Ex Libris line from Alison Glass for Andover Fabric.


2. Cutting: Cut the exterior fabric to measure 8 1/2 x 16″ Cut the lining to be 8 1/2 x 20″. The grey floral I chose for the exterior is directional, but I decided I liked how it looked sideways. If you are concerned about directional fabric, you need the 16″ to be the vertical measurement of your bag.


3. Forming the Bag: Place the pieces right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along both 8 1/2″ ends. Note: The lining piece will not lay flat as it is 4″ longer.


Lay the piece on your pressing board with the seams lining up as shown. The lining fabric will be right sides together and the exterior fabric will also be right sides together. Pin the seams in place.


Measure 2″ from the seam towards the lining and place a pin on both edges.


It should look like this.


Sew a 1/2″ seam from the second pin (not at the seam) down the open edge of the lining. Backstitch at the beginning. Repeat for the other edge.


Stitch a 1/2″ seam along the edge of the exterior fabric starting at the seam. Backstitch at the beginning.


Turn the piece right side out through one of the 2″ openings.


4. Finishing the Bag: Lay the bag out as shown and press the exterior side as well as the 2″ openings. Don’t press the remaining lining.


Stuff the lining into the exterior. Pin the sides so that the end of the openings align as shown. The seam allowance should be neatly tucked inside and laying flat. Take care that the lining is folded straight along the top. Press.


Topstitch along the edge of the exterior all the way around the top of the bag right near the seam. I used my #10 foot and moved my needle three spots to the left.


Pull the threads to the lining and knot.


5. Adding the Ribbon: Cut the ribbon into two pieces that are approximately 22″. Attach a safety pin to end of one ribbon and feed it through both channels creating a U so that the ends are back together. Make sure there are no twists in your ribbon.


Thread the second piece through both channels so that the ends meet on the other side of your bag. Make sure the ribbons do not cross one another. It should look like this.


Knot the ends and add Fray Check to prevent raveling.


You’ve got a charger bag!


This could easily be sized to fit whatever you need!

xo LC

Terrific Tool Thursday: Fray Check


It’s time for another terrific tool! Fray Check (from Dritz) is a must for every sewing room. It’s a product that you put on ribbons, fabrics and threads to prevent fraying. It dries clear so there’s no ugly spot (although I do test it on unique ribbons before I go to town). This image was taken right after application so you could see how much I used.


Here’s a picture of the same ribbon. On the right is the dry fray check and on the left is the piece that I didn’t fray check. I opened and closed the drawstring bag five times and this is how much it frayed. I’ll be trimming it and applying fray check later:)


You can also use it for making perfect buttonholes!

xo LC


Terrific Tip Tuesday: Make HSTs


I love to make flying geese units. I prefer the old school one at a time method. I draw a line from corner to corner to stitch along to make the flying goose unit. Then I draw a second line 1/2″ closer to the corner. Stitch that line as well. It’s a bit easier to sew before you cut. I cut in between the two stitched lines. Use this method for both corners and you’ll have one flying goose unit and two half square triangles (HSTs). The HSTs are perfect for quilt backs! This is what your stitching will look like. 


xo LC