Everybody loves a ziplock! They’re so handy to sort things and keep organized. However, they’re not the best for fabric storage. It’s better for cotton to have airflow, so you don’t want to seal it up tight. If you put blocks in a ziplock, snip off the corners!
I also like to leave the top unzipped for some extra airflow. If you seal fabric in an airtight container, it can trap moisture and bugs.
Storing interfacing is always a problem. I posted a bit ago about how I write a selvage on my interfacing . But I never really know what to do with scraps! Someone suggested storing interfacing rolled in a toilet paper roll. I’ve since found it to be the perfect solution for interfacing scraps! For larger interfacing scraps, you can wrap a piece of paper around to write your label.
There’s been a little bit of lonestar making in my studio. I guess cabin fever got the best of me…so much snow! Thought I’d share how I worked on my points. First I stuck a pin 1/4″ from the edge along the seam of the first piece and into the second piece. This one is also 1/4″ from the edge. You can draw the 1/4″ seam; I eyeballed it. As you can see, you need the points to align 1/4″ in, not at the edge.
Next, I gave the pin a good wiggle. This is a very technical sewing term, “a good wiggle.” This way, you can see where the pin was. Remove the pin. Place a second pin in as you normally would. As you stitch, stitch though the pin hole.
This trick works any time you’re attaching pieces along an angle and want perfect points. You can check out my lonestar over on Instagram.
Do you have more then one sewing machine? There’s nothing worse than arriving to class with the wrong foot pedal! Or even worse without your foot pedal! Linda, my tablemate from Sew Virginia Beach, suggested labels. Her machines have different pedals, so she labeled them prominently.
My machines have the same pedal, but I bought an extra to take to class. I keep it in my sewing machine’s case, so I don’t need to remember to pack it. I do the same with the power cord. If you have a spare already packed, you don’t need to remember it!
Yesterday was my stop on the Pat Sloan Mega Fun Book Tour! When Pat initially asked me to join in her fun, I asked if I could also find a tip to share today! There were so many to choose from. But I love this!
I love this idea of going in with a group of quilty friends to buy a batch of different batting. If you wanted to kick it up a notch, you could do larger swatches so that you could all quilt the samples. I pretty much use the same batting 99% of the time (you are my true love, Quilters Dream Select), but if I had samples, I might venture out more. I do love wool batting so when I venture, that’s where I tend to find myself. So gather your quilty troop and start sampling!
Marking the maker is so important! I would love to have labels on my vintage quilts. Then I would know who made them…and when…and why…and all the other questions that we have and we look at a quilt! But alas, no labels. So I make a point to label mine. And today I’m going to talk about the pens I use.
Regular Sharpies are awesome pens, but not for labels! They’re permanent but they’re NOT fade proof. In fact, after a washing they’re usually a gross shade of purple or green. Microns are permanent, waterproof AND fade proof. Micron is a brand name (as is Sharpie), so just look for words like fade proof and colorfast. I think sharpie even has a colorfast pen for fabric. This will ensure that your label will look just as good after a few washings!
Today’s tool is one if my favorite for teaching. One of the most frequent questions I get is how to sew a accurate 1/4″ seam. The first step to this is seeing what the 1/4″ seam on YOUR machine looks like. This is my go to tool!
This is my quarter inch foot and you can see how for an accurate 1/4″, I want my fabric just barely in from the foot. It’s called the Perfect Piecing Seam Guide. You can ask for it from your local quilt shop too! It’s the best tool under $10 that you’ll find.