Love All Around TUTORIAL


Lately I’ve been feeling as though there’s a lot of negativity going around, from the election to world affairs to right here in our own quilting community. I decided to create a block called Love All Around. It’s all about coming from a place of love and kindness. Quilting brings me joy and I love sharing that with all of you! Let’s all try to take a second to send a note of support, offer a word of kindness, cheer for the underdog or offer a helping hand. If you don’t have anything nice to say, don’t say anything at all. Or maybe keep thinking and find something nice to say!

This year, I’m going to make this block whenever I see kindness in my community! I want 2017 to be a year with Love All Around! I’m expecting to end the year with a sea of hearts…and an epic quilt. I’ve started spreading the love by asking a few of my stitchy friends to join in the fun!! I was more than a little overwhelmed when almost everyone said YES! The quilting world does love to spread love. The best part of sharing a tutorial is that everyone makes a unique block (and a few fun extra ideas!). Everyone will be posting today and through the weekend. Check out all the blocks:

Alex Duenkel
Amy Ellis of Amy’s Creative Side
Amy Friend of During Quiet Time
Amy Shively of Amy by the Park
Amy Smart of Diary of a Quilter
Amy Southerland of Amy Sews
Angela Gubler of The Green Apricot
Angela Pingel of Cut to Pieces
AnneMarie Chany of GenX Quilters
Asha Patel
Becky Jorgensen of Patchwork Posse
Chrissy Lux of Sew Lux
Corey Yoder of Coriander Quilts
Debra Jalbert of Made of Honor Quilts
Gina Allen of Ginabean Quilts & Trailer Stash
Ginny Robinson
Jen Kingwell of Jen Kingwell Designs
Karen Lewis of Karen Lewis Textiles
Kristen Ballou

Lee Heinrich of Freshly Pieced
Leslie Meltzer of 50 Sq Ft Studios
Nicole Carroll of Fist Full of Fabric
Sara Lawson of Sew Sweetness
Sarah Huechteman
Sarah Lowry of Stitching & Bacon
Stephanie Soebbing Quilt Addicts Anonymous
Tara Kordich of Amelia’s Garden
Tessa Walker of The Sewing Chick 
Xandi Hamilton

Let’s get started! Grab some scraps (or a dreamy stack of half yard cuts as I did!) and let’s get started spreading some love!

Love All Around Block Tutorial
Finished size: 8″ (Remember, this means it will be 8 1/2″ when you’re done making it and 8″ once sewn into your quilt.)

Use a 1/4″ seam throughout.

Supplies: Fabric A & Fabric B (hearts): One 6″ square and four 2 3/4″ squares of each. Fabric C (corners): Two 3 1/4″ squares. Fabric D (background): Four 4 3/4 x 2 3/4″ rectangles and two 3 1/4″ squares. *All the pieces are oversized for trimming, so if you’re a smidge short on fabric, it’s okay!


Making the Hourglass Unit: Place the two 6″ squares on top of one another. Cut in half diagonally. Make sure to align the 45° line along the bottom edge for a perfect cut.


Cut in half diagonally in the opposite direction as well.


You will only need two of each fabric opposite one another. Save the extra pieces for another block!


Stitch the triangles together in pairs as shown. Press to the darker fabric.


Align the seams and lock them together to stitch along the diagonal. Because you’re stitching along bias edges, they can be stretchier. I pin each end and the two seam allowances in the middle.


Trim the hourglass unit to 4 1/2″. I used my Bloc Loc ruler. Make certain that the center of the block where all four points meet is at 2 1/4″ on your ruler. Also make certain that the 4 1/2″ trim line will land where the two fabrics meet as shown by the pins in the picture.


If you don’t have a bloc loc, your trimming will look like this. Use the 45° line (marked with washi tape) and make certain that the center points meet at the 2 1/4″ mark (shown by the pin).


This is what you should have!


Making the Flying Geese Units: Put a piece of tape on your sewing machine showing the center needle line. Place a 2 3/4″ square on a 4 3/4 x 2 3/4″ rectangle. Align the top corner with the needle and the bottom of the corner with the tape edge. Stitch through the middle of the square diagonally keeping the bottom corner along the edge of the tape.


Repeat so that you have two with Fabric A and two with Fabric B.


Trim a 1/4″ from the seam line. It just needs to be neat, not perfect! I use scissors, but you can also use a rotary. Press towards the dark.


Place a matching square on the other corner of each piece. Stitch through the center of the square as you did in the previous step.


Repeat for all four flying geese units. Press towards the dark.


You will have this.


Trim to 4 1/2 x 2 1/2″. I used a Bloc Loc ruler.


If you don’t have the Bloc Loc available, make sure to center the point and have the point be 1/4″ from the edge as shown by the center pin. Use the 45° line on the ruler (marked with washi) to align the seam. Trim to 4 1/2 x 2 1/2″ as shown by the outside pins.


Making the Half Square Triangles: Place a piece of tape along the 1/4″ mark of your machine to extend the mark. Place a 3 1/4″ square of Fabric C and Fabric D right side together. Align the top corner of the square with the edge of your 1/4″ foot. Align the bottom corner of the squares with the edge of the tape. Stitch two lines each 1/4″ from the center line.


Cut apart the triangles. Press towards Fabric D/Background.


Trim to 2 1/2″.


Assemble the Block: Place all the units as shown.


Sew together as three rows of three units. As you stitch the flying geese unit, make certain that your 1/4″ seam crosses right at the point of the flying geese unit.


The corner unit seam will lock with the flying geese unit seam as shown.


A pin is your friend.


Press the top and bottom rows towards the corners. Press the center row towards the hourglass unit. Stitch the rows together and press the seams towards the hourglass unit.


Spread the love!!


I’ll be filling my year with lots of mementos of kindness. These blocks would also make a fun gift when you see a kind act or need to send a little love. Make them your own!!

xx LC

Craftsy T-Shirt Shoe Bag TUTORIAL


A few weeks ago Craftsy put out a challenge to their instructors…make something awesome with some extra Craftsy t-shirts. I can’t really explain my train of thought, but I thought shoe bags! I’ve been wanting some shoe bags for when I travel. And the knit of the t-shirts meant that the shoe bags would be both stuffable and stretchable- both selling points when traveling! We were sent two Craftsy shirts. They are super soft knit.


I chose four fabrics that went well with the soft khaki of the shirt. I wanted bright, fun and cheerful. I mixed and matched the fabrics and the ties.


Here’s a quick little tutorial so you can make your own! These would also be a great way to repurpose old t-shirts (especially the ones that you can’t let go of!).

Supplies: One t-shirt per bag, 1/8 yard of fabric for bag, 1/8 yard of fabric for ties (or substitute 2 1/4 yards of twill tape or ribbon)

Cutting: Cut two 10 1/2 x 13″ pieces of knit from each t-shirt.* Cut four 4 1/2 x 10 1/2″ pieces from the bag fabric. Cut two 1 1/2 x 38″ pieces for the ties. * You might want to adjust the length based on your shoe size. I added 3″ to the length of my shoe.


Step 1Mark the center inch on the back of two of the bag fabric pieces. It is 1 3/4″ from either edge. Two pieces remain unmarked.


Attach a marked bag fabric piece to a knit t-shirt piece along the 10 1/2″ edge using a 1/4″ seam. Repeat with the other two pieces (one marked bag fabric piece and one knit t-shirt piece). Note that you will want to use a needle designed for stitching knits- ballpoint/jersey/stretch. You will also want to pin heavily as the knit can be unruly.


Attach the unmarked bag fabric pieces along the 10 1/2″ edge of each marked bag fabric piece. You should now have two identical pieces with a knit t-shirt piece, then a marked fabric bag piece and another unmarked fabric bag piece. It will measure 10 1/2 x 20″. Press all seams away from the knit.

Step 2Place the two pieces right sides together. Stitch a 1/4″ seam down each 20″ side. DO NOT stitch the 1″ marked area and backstitch at the beginning and end of this gap.


Make certain the seam is pressed away from the knit t-shirt.


Then stitch a 1/4″ seam along the bottom. The corners should cross as shown creating a strong seam.


Step 3: Turn the bag right side out. Fold under a 1/4″ seam along the top raw edge. Pin each of the side seams and stretch out on your ironing board. Use pins to keep the 1/4″ even along the edges. Press.


Fold the top of the bag in along the seam. Pin in place and topstitch along the edge securing the inside edge.


Topstitch along the top edge as well. Topstitch along the outer edges of the inch openings creating a channel for the tie.


Step 4: Press the ties in half, then press in each side to create double fold binding.


Press in half again concealing all raw edges. Top stitch. Put a safety pin on the end and feed through the channel. Feed the other tie through the channel from the opposite side. Tie the ends in place.


Step 5: Plan an awesome trip and use your bags!

xx LC


Stitching with Lorelai TUTORIAL


If you read the title of this post and thought to yourself, “Lorelai Gilmore is my spirit animal!”, then welcome to the Stitching with Lorelai stitch along. (If you thought, “Who is Lorelai?” Get thee to Netflix and start watching Gilmore Girls. You will not regret it.) For those of you already firmly on Team Luke, I’m glad you’re here! In honor of the Gilmore Girls Revival coming next week, I’ve pulled together a few of my stitchy friends who are also longing for Stars Hollow. This is a pretty simple stitch along. Each day, one of us will post a simple stitching project. Here is the line up!

Monday, November 14: Lee Chappell Monroe of May Chappell
Tuesday, November 15: Corey Yoder of Coriander Quilts
Wednesday, November 16: Tessa Walker of The Sewing Chick
Thursday, November 17: Sarah Lowry of Stitching & Bacon
Friday, November 18: Elizabeth Dackson of Don’t Call Me Betsy
Saturday, November 19: Lee Chappell Monroe of May Chappell

This is a SUPER casual stitchalong! Basically, all the designs are free. We’d love for you to stitch them up while binge watching your favorite episodes or even during the second viewing of the revival. The first viewing will require focus. We are having a little giveaway on Instagram. Every time you use the hashtag #stitchingwithlorelai, you get an entry. You can post anything from choosing your floss to your finished product. Unlimited entries. On December 1, we will randomly choose a winner who will receive a SewLux gift card for $50! Special thanks to Chrissy & Linda for donating this awesome prize!

I decided to start where the series started. The perfect song for the perfect show. “Where you Lead, I will Follow.” Thank you Carole King. You can download my design here.


Here are the colors I used:
Purple Lettering: Anchor 89, 3 strands, stem stitch
Yellow Daisies: Anchor 303, 3 strands, lazy daisy stitch
Light Purple Daisies: Cosmo 483, 3 strands, lazy daisy stitch
Teal Daisies: Anchor 187, 3 strands, lazy daisy stitch
Aqua Daisies: Cosmo 413, 3 strands, lazy daisy stitch
Bright Pink Daisies: Cosmo 3115, 3 strands, lazy daisy stitch

There are so many other fun things that are Gilmore related that are cropping up everywhere! I’m dying to make some of these coffee cups. Amy Friend of During Quiet Time made these for each of the major characters. It’s a fun game to guess the character she’s depicting. The swan for Jess made me laugh out loud! You can get her pattern here (US & International) or Etsy (US only) or Craftsy (US only).


I hope you’ll enjoy Stitching with Lorelai! Let the games begin!

xx LC

Olfa Designer Spotlight TUTORIAL

Olfa, maker of everyones’ favorite rotary cutter, does a cool series called Designer Spotlight. Guess who is representing for September/October?! Basically, I got to pick some cool Olfa products and create a tutorial. You can read their spotlight on me here. This is what I made!


You can get the full tutorial here.


I used the really cool Olfa blades that cut design details.


The tutorial includes lots of pictures and details. So dive right in!


xx LC

PS: I received some Olfa product for free. I’m telling you about it because I find it interesting and valuable:)

Cube Pinnie TUTORIAL 


It’s tutorial time! I used Tula Pink‘s Eden line which is hitting stores now. You can find the full line locally at Village Fabric; Amy has kits for the pinnie! Read through all the directions before you start because there are two options for finishing.


Supplies: You need two pieces that measure 9 1/2 x 3 1/2″ and one that measures 9 1/2 x 4 1/2″. You’ll also need an erasable marking tool and some crushed walnut shells for stuffing.


Making the Pocket: Press the 4 1/2″ piece in half lengthwise.


Topstitch along the folded edge about 1/8″ from the edge.


Place the pocket on one of the 9 1/2 x 3 1/2″ pieces with all the raw edges lining up. Baste along the bottom edge about 1/8″ from the edge.


Baste both the sides starting at the bottom edge and stitching up towards the top of the pocket. (This will prevent puckering.)


You should have this.


Topstitching: Measure in 3 1/4″ from the side and mark with an erasable marking tool. I used a Frixion pen.


You will do this from both edges.


Topstitch along the line.


Repeat for the remaining 9 1/2 x 3 1/2″ piece and remove the markings.


Making the Cube (Machine): Take one piece and align it so that the edges line up. (I’m folding it back so you can see.) The sides should both be approximately 1/4″ past the topstitching.


Align the other end of the top piece with the other edge of the bottom piece as shown.


Pin it in place. Imagine the two sides coming up to form the cube.


This part is a bit tricky, but just remember, IT’S A PINCUSHION! If there’s a pucker, it will be okay:) Align the corners. We will be stitching with a 1/4″ seam. I placed a pin perpendicular to the fabric approximately 1/4″ in from the two edges.


There is a seam on the other piece to align with. You should be 1/4″ from the edge.


Lower your stitch length. I normally stitch at 2.5 and I did this at 2.0.


Sew with a 1/4″ seam. Only sew one corner at a time. It’s easier to pin and stitch one corner at a time. Stitch with the seam side on top and you can stop with your needle down in the seam to turn the corner. This is an easy way to tell exactly where the corner should be.


Overlap the stitching a bit when you start the next corner. This will lock the stitches.


When you get to the final two corners, leave a 1 1/2″ opening on one edge.


Turn right side out. You will have this!


Making the Cube (Optional Hand Sewing): If you are more comfortable, hand stitching this piece together takes about the same amount of time as machine sewing it. You will use the same method to align your corners. First, you’ll want to mark a 1/4″ seam on the back of both your pieces. (This might help you on machine sewing as well, although I did not do it. I guesstimated.)


Align the corners in the same fashion. Hand stitch with small stitches staying on the marked lines on BOTH sides. Make sure to use small stitches.


Fill with crushed walnut shells (or a filling of your choosing!) and hand stitched closed. The more full, the better! Keep adding until you cannot add any more. You’re done!


xo LC


Lucky Project Bags TUTORIAL

Today is my stop on the Lotta Jansdotter Lucky blog tour with Windham Fabric! I really liked this line when I saw it at market. Lotta’s prints are always bold and the scale of these will work well for patchwork. There’s a great cat print in the line as well if you’re a cat lover. (Don’t tell Mack the Chihuahua!) Since I’m dying to use these for patchwork, I obviously decided make project bags for my project. No really, I decided on project bags because I’ve been waiting on a fabric that I knew I would still love in a year. These colors are my happy place. I’m giving away a bundle of this awesomeness on Instagram so head over there to enter!


I decided on the size so they would fit in my Ikea Raskog cart. They would be pretty easy to adjust the size on if you’re so inclined. How perfect are these fabrics?!


I mixed in bright contrasting zippers.


The labels are written with Frixion pens so they can easily be ironed off and a new label written.


I was supplied a fat quarter bundle of these beauties, so I first paired them off to my liking. I played with them for quite a while before I chose this.

Finished size: 11 1/2 x 10 1/2″. Read all directions before beginning any project!

1. Supplies: You need two fat quarters (one for exterior and one for lining), a 13 x 20″ piece of Pellon Fusible Fleece, a 4 x 4″ piece of neutral, a 4 x 4″ piece of Pellon SF101, a 6 1/2 x 12 1/2 piece of clear vinyl (vinyl cutting tips here) and a 14″ zipper. Aurifil 40 wt is recommended. I made five project bags at once using five times the supplies; this is a great project to do as an assembly line making multiples.

2. Fusing & Cutting: Fuse the Fusible Fleece to the exterior fat quarter. (Fuse lightly before you cut your pieces. Once you’ve cut, you can remove the interfacing from unused pieces and thoroughly fuse the pieces you are using.)

Cut one 12 1/2 x 12 1/2″ piece and one 12 1/2 x 3 1/2″ pieces from the exterior interfaced fabric. Fuse thoroughly.


Cut one 12 1/2 x 12 1/2″ piece, one 3 1/2 x 12 1/2″ piece and two 1 3/4 x 11 1/2″ pieces from the lining.


Fuse the SF101 to the 4 x 4″ neutral square. Trim to 3 1/2 x 3 1/2″.

You should have all these pieces.


3. Making the Tabs: Finger press the piece in half. Open back up and finger press in 1/4″ along the edges as shown.

Press these seams in place.

Topstitch along the edges as shown.

4. Attaching the Vinyl: Take the large exterior piece and large lining piece and sandwich the vinyl in between as shown. The 12 1/2″ edge of the vinyl should be along the edge.

Use wonder clips as pins will damage vinyl.

Stitch a 1/4″ seam. Neither your presser foot or the feed dogs are interacting with the vinyl which will make it much easier!

Repeat these steps with the 3 1/2 x 12 1/2″ pieces on the other edge of the vinyl. Make sure to put your exterior and lining fabrics on the same sides. This is what you should have!


Topstitch along the edge of the fabric.

Place the folded tab on the right edge as shown. Wonder clip in place. Turn so the vinyl is on top. It is easier to stitch with the vinyl on top. Stitch in place with a 1/4″ seam.

5. Attaching the Zipper: Place the zipper right sides together with the 12 1/2″ edge of the exterior fabric opposite the vinyl. Make sure the lining fabric is out of the way. Stitch using your zipper foot. Note that you are stitching on the back of the zipper.

Bring the edge of the lining fabric to the other side of the zipper so that the exterior and lining fabric are right sides together with the zipper in between. All the vinyl and other pieces will be in the middle as shown.


Stitch just slightly to the left of the previous seam.

Turn it right sides out.

It will look like this.


Topstitch along the edge of the fabric by the zipper.

Place the 3 1/2 wide exterior piece right sides together along the unsewn edge of the zipper.


Attach using your zipper foot.

Unzip the zipper. Bring the 3 1/2 lining piece up and finger press a 1/4″ seam.

Pin it along the top edge of the seam concealing the seam. Make sure the lining fabric is flat and does not pucker.

Pin the complete edge. Turn the piece right side out so the exterior is on top.

Topstitch along the fabric edge by the zipper attaching the lining at the same time. It’s awkward because the other side of the zipper is still attached, so pull it to the top left as shown to insure that you don’t sew over it.

You should have this.


6. Forming the Bag: Turn the bag wrong sides out.


Pin the open edge of the zipper together. Fold about 3/4″ above the zipper and wonder clip the edge. Keep the zipper unzipped.

You should have this. You will have to insure that both sides lay flat as there are a lot of layers.

Stitch a 1/2″ seam along the edge. Sew with the vinyl on top as it is easier.

Leave long tails at the top and bottom to knot. (Backstitching causes bulk that makes turning the piece more difficult.)

You should have this!


7. Covering the Seam Allowance: Trim 3/8″ from the seam for a clean edge.

You’ll be cutting off the zipper in the process.

You should have this.

Take the remaining two pieces of lining fabric and make double fold tape. Fold in half and press, then fold in the two edges to the middle and press concealing all raw edges.

These pieces will cover the seam allowance.

Wrap around the edge and hold in place with wonder clips. Fold in the ends as shown to conceal all the raw edges.

It should look like this.

Clip in place.

Repeat for both edges.

I replaced the clip with a pin just before I stitched so that I could sew right up to the pin.

Stitch along the edge of the wrap.

Again leave a long tail so that it can be knotted on both ends.

You should have this!


8. Finishing the Bag: Turn it right side out.


And you’ll have this!


If your vinyl got a little beat up, you can lay a protective piece over it and hit it briefly with a medium heat iron.


Use a frixion pen on the labels.

And you can erase it with an iron. Don’t accidentally hit the vinyl with your iron!

Voila! All packed and ready for stitching!

I made five and I already need five more!

xo LC

Charger Bag TUTORIAL

It’s time for another quick tutorial! Whenever I travel, I feel like I have chargers out the wazoo. Here’s a SUPER quick tutorial to make a little bag to hold all those cords. Today is also Make & Take night at Village Fabric Shop from 5-7. Amy will have everything you need to make this bag for $6. You’ll get to pick your fabrics!


Finished Size: 7 1/2 x 8 1/2″

1. Supplies: You need two fat eighths and 44″ of ribbon that is 1/4-1/2″ wide. I constructed the bag with 40 wt Aurifil. I chose these two fabrics from the Ex Libris line from Alison Glass for Andover Fabric.


2. Cutting: Cut the exterior fabric to measure 8 1/2 x 16″ Cut the lining to be 8 1/2 x 20″. The grey floral I chose for the exterior is directional, but I decided I liked how it looked sideways. If you are concerned about directional fabric, you need the 16″ to be the vertical measurement of your bag.


3. Forming the Bag: Place the pieces right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along both 8 1/2″ ends. Note: The lining piece will not lay flat as it is 4″ longer.


Lay the piece on your pressing board with the seams lining up as shown. The lining fabric will be right sides together and the exterior fabric will also be right sides together. Pin the seams in place.


Measure 2″ from the seam towards the lining and place a pin on both edges.


It should look like this.


Sew a 1/2″ seam from the second pin (not at the seam) down the open edge of the lining. Backstitch at the beginning. Repeat for the other edge.


Stitch a 1/2″ seam along the edge of the exterior fabric starting at the seam. Backstitch at the beginning.


Turn the piece right side out through one of the 2″ openings.


4. Finishing the Bag: Lay the bag out as shown and press the exterior side as well as the 2″ openings. Don’t press the remaining lining.


Stuff the lining into the exterior. Pin the sides so that the end of the openings align as shown. The seam allowance should be neatly tucked inside and laying flat. Take care that the lining is folded straight along the top. Press.


Topstitch along the edge of the exterior all the way around the top of the bag right near the seam. I used my #10 foot and moved my needle three spots to the left.


Pull the threads to the lining and knot.


5. Adding the Ribbon: Cut the ribbon into two pieces that are approximately 22″. Attach a safety pin to end of one ribbon and feed it through both channels creating a U so that the ends are back together. Make sure there are no twists in your ribbon.


Thread the second piece through both channels so that the ends meet on the other side of your bag. Make sure the ribbons do not cross one another. It should look like this.


Knot the ends and add Fray Check to prevent raveling.


You’ve got a charger bag!


This could easily be sized to fit whatever you need!

xo LC

Scissor Case TUTORIAL

It’s time for another fast and fun tutorial! If you’re local, head over to Village Fabric Shop for Make & Take day from 1-7 today (July 9). Amy will let you choose your fabric and she has all the supplies on hand.


1. Supplies: You need two 10″ squares* of fabric, one for the outside and one for the lining. You’ll also need a 10″ square of batting”, a pinking blade for your rotary cutter and a 5″ piece of double fold elastic.

* Measure your scissors and add 4″ for different size scissors. My scissors measure 6″ in length so I used 10″ squares.


2. Cutting the Pieces: Press the squares so they sort of stick together with right sides facing out and the batting in the middle.


Cut through the middle diagonally with the pinking rotary blade. You’ll have an extra triangle to make a second case if you like.


Fold over in half and pin along the long edge with outside fabric to the outside.


3. Marking & Elastic: Using a removable marking pen, mark a line 1 1/2″ from the point on the pinked edge and 3/8″ down from the other point on the long edge. If your scissors are extremely narrow or wide, you can adjust the 1 1/2″ measurement. 1 1/2″ worked well for most of my scissors.


Fold the elastic in half and add it between the pieces of the point. Place the elastic about 1/8-1/4″ from the line you marked. If you’re using decorative elastic, place right sides together.


Pin in place.


4. Stitching: I used 40wt Aurifil with a walking foot and a Jeans needle.


Leave a long tail and stitch along the marked line.


Knot off the long tails on the two ends and trim.


5. Trimming & Finishing; Pull the elastic out of the way and pin parallel to the stitching.


Trim 1/4″ from the marked edge with the pinking rotary.


Open up.


Finger press open the seam and press so the seam is running up the middle of the back.




Place in your scissors!


Pull over the elastic and freely toss your scissors in a bag without fear of damage!


xo LC

Ribbon Key Fob TUTORIAL

My sweet friend Amy, who owns The Village Fabric Shop, asked me to help her with some make & take projects. She’s going to start having Make & Take Night on the second Thursday of the month. The shop is open noon to seven on Thursdays, so you can come by 4-7 pm. All the projects will be fast and fun! Plus, she’ll have low-priced kits! This month, we are making key fobs. 


I’m going to post a simple tutorial here for everyone who wants to make one at home! Here we go!
1. Supplies: You’ll need 12″ of 1 1/8″ webbing and 12″ of decorative ribbon. If desired, you can make the strap shorter; I chose 12″ because it easily slid over my hand. You’ll also need the key fob hardware. 


I recommend a walking foot and a Jeans 90/12 needle with Aurifil 40wt thread.

2. Attaching the Ribbon: Place the ribbon on the webbing using a Wonderclip or similar to hold it in place. 


Topstitch 1/8″ or closer to the edge to secure the first side of the ribbon.


Topstitch the other side down in similar fashion. If you can bear to stitch on the “wrong side”, it will keep your ribbon smooth and ripple free.

3. Attaching the Fob: Trim each end for a clean edge. 


Fold the ribbon end to end with the ribbon on the outside. Line up the key fob covering both ends.

Fold a scrap over the fob to protect it and press closed with pliers. I recommend you press in stages; don’t try to smash it all at once.


Add the key ring (and some keys!) and enjoy! These are addictive.


xo LC

Round & Round Ribbon Mug Rug TUTORIAL

I’m not usually one for mug rugs, but I saw a really cute little mini posted on the Renaissance Ribbon’s Instagram page. And I  immediately thought, how cute would that be as a log cabin?!


So here we go! If you’re local, Amy made some kits at Village Fabric Shop (formerly Little General). She’s also got tons of ribbon, so you can pick your own!

Finished Size: Approximately 8″ square.

1. Supplies: You’ll need one 12 x 12″ piece for the back and a 12 x 12″ piece of batting. Plus one 2″ x width of fabric strip for binding (or a binding scrap at least 40″ long.) Plus some Renaissance Ribbons!
Here is what I used:
— 2 1/2″ piece of 38 mm wide
— 2″ piece of 16 mm wide
— 3″ piece of 38 mm wide
— 3″ piece of 38 mm wide
— 4 3/4″ piece of 38 mm wide
— 5″ piece of 25 mm wide
— 6″ piece of 48 mm wide
— 7″ piece of 38 mm wide
— 7″ piece of 16 mm wide
— 7″ piece of 38 mm wide
— 8″ piece of 38 mm wide

2. Prep the Back & Batting: This project is quilt as you go, so first iron the backing and put the batting on top of it like the beginning of a quilt sandwich.

3. Quilting the Ribbons: Place your first two ribbons in the center. Stitch along the length between the two ribbons.

Stitch along the right edge of the first ribbon.

Bury your threads on the back.

When you add the next piece, you will cover the raw edges. Just keep adding!

Work your way around and around adding a ribbon like a traditional log cabin.

4. Finishing: Trim to about 1/8″ beyond the edge of the ribbon.

It should look like this.

Add the binding! You’re done!

xo LC