Lucky Project Bags TUTORIAL

Today is my stop on the Lotta Jansdotter Lucky blog tour with Windham Fabric! I really liked this line when I saw it at market. Lotta’s prints are always bold and the scale of these will work well for patchwork. There’s a great cat print in the line as well if you’re a cat lover. (Don’t tell Mack the Chihuahua!) Since I’m dying to use these for patchwork, I obviously decided make project bags for my project. No really, I decided on project bags because I’ve been waiting on a fabric that I knew I would still love in a year. These colors are my happy place. I’m giving away a bundle of this awesomeness on Instagram so head over there to enter!


I decided on the size so they would fit in my Ikea Raskog cart. They would be pretty easy to adjust the size on if you’re so inclined. How perfect are these fabrics?!


I mixed in bright contrasting zippers.


The labels are written with Frixion pens so they can easily be ironed off and a new label written.


I was supplied a fat quarter bundle of these beauties, so I first paired them off to my liking. I played with them for quite a while before I chose this.

Finished size: 11 1/2 x 10 1/2″. Read all directions before beginning any project!

1. Supplies: You need two fat quarters (one for exterior and one for lining), a 13 x 20″ piece of Pellon Fusible Fleece, a 4 x 4″ piece of neutral, a 4 x 4″ piece of Pellon SF101, a 6 1/2 x 12 1/2 piece of clear vinyl (vinyl cutting tips here) and a 14″ zipper. Aurifil 40 wt is recommended. I made five project bags at once using five times the supplies; this is a great project to do as an assembly line making multiples.

2. Fusing & Cutting: Fuse the Fusible Fleece to the exterior fat quarter. (Fuse lightly before you cut your pieces. Once you’ve cut, you can remove the interfacing from unused pieces and thoroughly fuse the pieces you are using.)

Cut one 12 1/2 x 12 1/2″ piece and one 12 1/2 x 3 1/2″ pieces from the exterior interfaced fabric. Fuse thoroughly.


Cut one 12 1/2 x 12 1/2″ piece, one 3 1/2 x 12 1/2″ piece and two 1 3/4 x 11 1/2″ pieces from the lining.


Fuse the SF101 to the 4 x 4″ neutral square. Trim to 3 1/2 x 3 1/2″.

You should have all these pieces.


3. Making the Tabs: Finger press the piece in half. Open back up and finger press in 1/4″ along the edges as shown.

Press these seams in place.

Topstitch along the edges as shown.

4. Attaching the Vinyl: Take the large exterior piece and large lining piece and sandwich the vinyl in between as shown. The 12 1/2″ edge of the vinyl should be along the edge.

Use wonder clips as pins will damage vinyl.

Stitch a 1/4″ seam. Neither your presser foot or the feed dogs are interacting with the vinyl which will make it much easier!

Repeat these steps with the 3 1/2 x 12 1/2″ pieces on the other edge of the vinyl. Make sure to put your exterior and lining fabrics on the same sides. This is what you should have!


Topstitch along the edge of the fabric.

Place the folded tab on the right edge as shown. Wonder clip in place. Turn so the vinyl is on top. It is easier to stitch with the vinyl on top. Stitch in place with a 1/4″ seam.

5. Attaching the Zipper: Place the zipper right sides together with the 12 1/2″ edge of the exterior fabric opposite the vinyl. Make sure the lining fabric is out of the way. Stitch using your zipper foot. Note that you are stitching on the back of the zipper.

Bring the edge of the lining fabric to the other side of the zipper so that the exterior and lining fabric are right sides together with the zipper in between. All the vinyl and other pieces will be in the middle as shown.


Stitch just slightly to the left of the previous seam.

Turn it right sides out.

It will look like this.


Topstitch along the edge of the fabric by the zipper.

Place the 3 1/2 wide exterior piece right sides together along the unsewn edge of the zipper.


Attach using your zipper foot.

Unzip the zipper. Bring the 3 1/2 lining piece up and finger press a 1/4″ seam.

Pin it along the top edge of the seam concealing the seam. Make sure the lining fabric is flat and does not pucker.

Pin the complete edge. Turn the piece right side out so the exterior is on top.

Topstitch along the fabric edge by the zipper attaching the lining at the same time. It’s awkward because the other side of the zipper is still attached, so pull it to the top left as shown to insure that you don’t sew over it.

You should have this.


6. Forming the Bag: Turn the bag wrong sides out.


Pin the open edge of the zipper together. Fold about 3/4″ above the zipper and wonder clip the edge. Keep the zipper unzipped.

You should have this. You will have to insure that both sides lay flat as there are a lot of layers.

Stitch a 1/2″ seam along the edge. Sew with the vinyl on top as it is easier.

Leave long tails at the top and bottom to knot. (Backstitching causes bulk that makes turning the piece more difficult.)

You should have this!


7. Covering the Seam Allowance: Trim 3/8″ from the seam for a clean edge.

You’ll be cutting off the zipper in the process.

You should have this.

Take the remaining two pieces of lining fabric and make double fold tape. Fold in half and press, then fold in the two edges to the middle and press concealing all raw edges.

These pieces will cover the seam allowance.

Wrap around the edge and hold in place with wonder clips. Fold in the ends as shown to conceal all the raw edges.

It should look like this.

Clip in place.

Repeat for both edges.

I replaced the clip with a pin just before I stitched so that I could sew right up to the pin.

Stitch along the edge of the wrap.

Again leave a long tail so that it can be knotted on both ends.

You should have this!


8. Finishing the Bag: Turn it right side out.


And you’ll have this!


If your vinyl got a little beat up, you can lay a protective piece over it and hit it briefly with a medium heat iron.


Use a frixion pen on the labels.

And you can erase it with an iron. Don’t accidentally hit the vinyl with your iron!

Voila! All packed and ready for stitching!

I made five and I already need five more!

xo LC

Charger Bag TUTORIAL

It’s time for another quick tutorial! Whenever I travel, I feel like I have chargers out the wazoo. Here’s a SUPER quick tutorial to make a little bag to hold all those cords. Today is also Make & Take night at Village Fabric Shop from 5-7. Amy will have everything you need to make this bag for $6. You’ll get to pick your fabrics!


Finished Size: 7 1/2 x 8 1/2″

1. Supplies: You need two fat eighths and 44″ of ribbon that is 1/4-1/2″ wide. I constructed the bag with 40 wt Aurifil. I chose these two fabrics from the Ex Libris line from Alison Glass for Andover Fabric.


2. Cutting: Cut the exterior fabric to measure 8 1/2 x 16″ Cut the lining to be 8 1/2 x 20″. The grey floral I chose for the exterior is directional, but I decided I liked how it looked sideways. If you are concerned about directional fabric, you need the 16″ to be the vertical measurement of your bag.


3. Forming the Bag: Place the pieces right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along both 8 1/2″ ends. Note: The lining piece will not lay flat as it is 4″ longer.


Lay the piece on your pressing board with the seams lining up as shown. The lining fabric will be right sides together and the exterior fabric will also be right sides together. Pin the seams in place.


Measure 2″ from the seam towards the lining and place a pin on both edges.


It should look like this.


Sew a 1/2″ seam from the second pin (not at the seam) down the open edge of the lining. Backstitch at the beginning. Repeat for the other edge.


Stitch a 1/2″ seam along the edge of the exterior fabric starting at the seam. Backstitch at the beginning.


Turn the piece right side out through one of the 2″ openings.


4. Finishing the Bag: Lay the bag out as shown and press the exterior side as well as the 2″ openings. Don’t press the remaining lining.


Stuff the lining into the exterior. Pin the sides so that the end of the openings align as shown. The seam allowance should be neatly tucked inside and laying flat. Take care that the lining is folded straight along the top. Press.


Topstitch along the edge of the exterior all the way around the top of the bag right near the seam. I used my #10 foot and moved my needle three spots to the left.


Pull the threads to the lining and knot.


5. Adding the Ribbon: Cut the ribbon into two pieces that are approximately 22″. Attach a safety pin to end of one ribbon and feed it through both channels creating a U so that the ends are back together. Make sure there are no twists in your ribbon.


Thread the second piece through both channels so that the ends meet on the other side of your bag. Make sure the ribbons do not cross one another. It should look like this.


Knot the ends and add Fray Check to prevent raveling.


You’ve got a charger bag!


This could easily be sized to fit whatever you need!

xo LC

Scissor Case TUTORIAL

It’s time for another fast and fun tutorial! If you’re local, head over to Village Fabric Shop for Make & Take day from 1-7 today (July 9). Amy will let you choose your fabric and she has all the supplies on hand.


1. Supplies: You need two 10″ squares* of fabric, one for the outside and one for the lining. You’ll also need a 10″ square of batting”, a pinking blade for your rotary cutter and a 5″ piece of double fold elastic.

* Measure your scissors and add 4″ for different size scissors. My scissors measure 6″ in length so I used 10″ squares.


2. Cutting the Pieces: Press the squares so they sort of stick together with right sides facing out and the batting in the middle.


Cut through the middle diagonally with the pinking rotary blade. You’ll have an extra triangle to make a second case if you like.


Fold over in half and pin along the long edge with outside fabric to the outside.


3. Marking & Elastic: Using a removable marking pen, mark a line 1 1/2″ from the point on the pinked edge and 3/8″ down from the other point on the long edge. If your scissors are extremely narrow or wide, you can adjust the 1 1/2″ measurement. 1 1/2″ worked well for most of my scissors.


Fold the elastic in half and add it between the pieces of the point. Place the elastic about 1/8-1/4″ from the line you marked. If you’re using decorative elastic, place right sides together.


Pin in place.


4. Stitching: I used 40wt Aurifil with a walking foot and a Jeans needle.


Leave a long tail and stitch along the marked line.


Knot off the long tails on the two ends and trim.


5. Trimming & Finishing; Pull the elastic out of the way and pin parallel to the stitching.


Trim 1/4″ from the marked edge with the pinking rotary.


Open up.


Finger press open the seam and press so the seam is running up the middle of the back.




Place in your scissors!


Pull over the elastic and freely toss your scissors in a bag without fear of damage!


xo LC

Fragments Crossed TUTORIAL

Here is a link to all of my TUTORIALS.

Today I’m really excited to share a new tutorial with you! I saw this fabric at Quilt Market in the Dear Stella booth and really wanted to cross stitch it. So I did! Isn’t that fabric great?! The name of the line is Fragments and the center print is called Cross Stitch, so obviously it was meant to be.


I owe a huge shout out and thank you to Martha from Knit One Smock Too for patiently helping me choose the floss for my cross stitch. I wanted to find all the perfect colors and she’s the best!


This was so much fun to piece! And a great hand stitching project to boot!! My floss colors are slightly lighter than the fabric so that the stitching pops.


You can find a complete step-by-step TUTORIAL on the Dear Stella blog here! Another huge thank you to Jessie at Dear Stella! I love working with Dear Stella fabrics and it was great to work with you on this project. Here are a few more pictures because I just can’t stop myself!


I quilted so that the pieced cross stitched blocks popped.


xo LC