Charger Bag TUTORIAL

It’s time for another quick tutorial! Whenever I travel, I feel like I have chargers out the wazoo. Here’s a SUPER quick tutorial to make a little bag to hold all those cords. Today is also Make & Take night at Village Fabric Shop from 5-7. Amy will have everything you need to make this bag for $6. You’ll get to pick your fabrics!

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Finished Size: 7 1/2 x 8 1/2″

1. Supplies: You need two fat eighths and 44″ of ribbon that is 1/4-1/2″ wide. I constructed the bag with 40 wt Aurifil. I chose these two fabrics from the Ex Libris line from Alison Glass for Andover Fabric.

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2. Cutting: Cut the exterior fabric to measure 8 1/2 x 16″ Cut the lining to be 8 1/2 x 20″. The grey floral I chose for the exterior is directional, but I decided I liked how it looked sideways. If you are concerned about directional fabric, you need the 16″ to be the vertical measurement of your bag.

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3. Forming the Bag: Place the pieces right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along both 8 1/2″ ends. Note: The lining piece will not lay flat as it is 4″ longer.

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Lay the piece on your pressing board with the seams lining up as shown. The lining fabric will be right sides together and the exterior fabric will also be right sides together. Pin the seams in place.

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Measure 2″ from the seam towards the lining and place a pin on both edges.

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It should look like this.

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Sew a 1/2″ seam from the second pin (not at the seam) down the open edge of the lining. Backstitch at the beginning. Repeat for the other edge.

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Stitch a 1/2″ seam along the edge of the exterior fabric starting at the seam. Backstitch at the beginning.

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Turn the piece right side out through one of the 2″ openings.

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4. Finishing the Bag: Lay the bag out as shown and press the exterior side as well as the 2″ openings. Don’t press the remaining lining.

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Stuff the lining into the exterior. Pin the sides so that the end of the openings align as shown. The seam allowance should be neatly tucked inside and laying flat. Take care that the lining is folded straight along the top. Press.

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Topstitch along the edge of the exterior all the way around the top of the bag right near the seam. I used my #10 foot and moved my needle three spots to the left.

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Pull the threads to the lining and knot.

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5. Adding the Ribbon: Cut the ribbon into two pieces that are approximately 22″. Attach a safety pin to end of one ribbon and feed it through both channels creating a U so that the ends are back together. Make sure there are no twists in your ribbon.

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Thread the second piece through both channels so that the ends meet on the other side of your bag. Make sure the ribbons do not cross one another. It should look like this.

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Knot the ends and add Fray Check to prevent raveling.

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You’ve got a charger bag!

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This could easily be sized to fit whatever you need!

xo LC

Terrific Tool Thursday: Fray Check

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It’s time for another terrific tool! Fray Check (from Dritz) is a must for every sewing room. It’s a product that you put on ribbons, fabrics and threads to prevent fraying. It dries clear so there’s no ugly spot (although I do test it on unique ribbons before I go to town). This image was taken right after application so you could see how much I used.

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Here’s a picture of the same ribbon. On the right is the dry fray check and on the left is the piece that I didn’t fray check. I opened and closed the drawstring bag five times and this is how much it frayed. I’ll be trimming it and applying fray check later:)

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You can also use it for making perfect buttonholes!

xo LC

 

Round & Round Ribbon Mug Rug TUTORIAL

I’m not usually one for mug rugs, but I saw a really cute little mini posted on the Renaissance Ribbon’s Instagram page. And I  immediately thought, how cute would that be as a log cabin?!

  

So here we go! If you’re local, Amy made some kits at Village Fabric Shop (formerly Little General). She’s also got tons of ribbon, so you can pick your own!

Finished Size: Approximately 8″ square.

1. Supplies: You’ll need one 12 x 12″ piece for the back and a 12 x 12″ piece of batting. Plus one 2″ x width of fabric strip for binding (or a binding scrap at least 40″ long.) Plus some Renaissance Ribbons!
Here is what I used:
— 2 1/2″ piece of 38 mm wide
— 2″ piece of 16 mm wide
— 3″ piece of 38 mm wide
— 3″ piece of 38 mm wide
— 4 3/4″ piece of 38 mm wide
— 5″ piece of 25 mm wide
— 6″ piece of 48 mm wide
— 7″ piece of 38 mm wide
— 7″ piece of 16 mm wide
— 7″ piece of 38 mm wide
— 8″ piece of 38 mm wide

2. Prep the Back & Batting: This project is quilt as you go, so first iron the backing and put the batting on top of it like the beginning of a quilt sandwich.

3. Quilting the Ribbons: Place your first two ribbons in the center. Stitch along the length between the two ribbons.

Stitch along the right edge of the first ribbon.

Bury your threads on the back.

When you add the next piece, you will cover the raw edges. Just keep adding!

Work your way around and around adding a ribbon like a traditional log cabin.

4. Finishing: Trim to about 1/8″ beyond the edge of the ribbon.

It should look like this.

Add the binding! You’re done!

xo LC

The Fiver Tote TUTORIAL

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I’ve had this tutorial in my head for a while. So when sweet Gina over at The Little General asked me to do a demo for Quilt Carolina, I decided this would be perfect! My demo will be at 3 at The Little General in Reynolda Village. She wanted something involving fat quarters because she’s got this great Fat Stacks club. Basically you get two sets of fat quarters per month and she has all kinds of pattern ideas and fun activities for the fat stackers. It’s pretty cool!

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Supplies: You’ll need five fat quarters and a half yard of fusible fleece.

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You will also need 1 yard of webbing for the handles. I found this great linen strapping. I suggest 1 to 2″ wide. And 1/2 yard of decorative ribbon. This is optional.

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1. Cutting: Cut the two outer fabrics and two lining fabrics to be 17 x 20″.

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Note: If you use a directional print, it might be sideways. These flowers are directional, but I decided I was okay with how they looked sideways. Just something to consider as you select fabric.

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Cut the fifth fat quarter to 17 x 17″.

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2. Fusing: Fuse the Fusible Fleece to the two outer pieces. I prefer to fuse the center, then trim a clean edge. Then fuse the outer edges.

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3. Making the Pocket: Take the 17″ square piece and fold it in half right sides together. If you’re fabric is directional, make sure that you fold it the correct way.

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Sew a 1/2″ seam along the long edge.

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Press the seam open. And turn the tube right side out.

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Press the tube flat with the seam towards the bottom.

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If you’re using decorative ribbon, center it along the top edge. Topstitch along the edge attaching the ribbon. If you choose not to use ribbon, you still need to topstitch along the edge. I use a #10 foot with my needle moved over two spots and a stitch length of 3.0.

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You’ll also topstitch the other edge of the ribbon.

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4. Attaching the Pocket: Place the bottom of the pocket (the non top stitched/ribboned edge) 7″ from the bottom of one outer piece. Pin it in place.

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Topstitch it in place. I stitch two rows for added strength. I use the #10 foot with the needle moved over two spots and then four spots.

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If you want a pocket divider, stitch vertical stitches as well. I stitched one in the middle. Back stitch at the beginning and end. I marked my stitch line with a frixion pen.

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Trim the edges if the ribbon and pocket to be flush with the outer piece. Don’t worry if it’s a little short.

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5. Constructing the Handles: Cut the handles to be 18″ long. If you’re using a thicker webbing, you might want to skip this step. Fold in half to find the center and place a pin.

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Measure 2″ to either side of the pin. Fold the handles in half lengthwise and pin.

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Topstitch along the 4″ segment. Leave a long tail at the beginning and end to knot. Trim the tails once you’ve knotted.

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6. Attaching the Handles: Fold the outer piece in half lengthwise to find the center of the 17″ side. Mark it with a pin. Measure out 3″ on either side to the center of the handle. The stitched side of the handle should be facing up.

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Attach with a 1/4″ seam.

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Repeat for the other side. Make sure that the pocket opening is pointed towards the handle.

7. Attaching the Lining: Place a piece of lining right sides together with an outer piece.

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Sew 1/2″ seam. You are sewing over the handles.

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Repeat for the other side. Press.

8. Constructing the Bag: Lay the two pieces so that the outer pieces are right sides together and the lining is right sides together. Be careful to align the seams in the middle. The seam allowances lay towards the outer pieces; do not best or lock this seam.

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Sew a 1/2″ starting from just above the seams along the side of the outer pieces.

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Make sure the pocket is flat.

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Repeat on the other long outer edge.

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Sew 1/2″ seam along the shorter outer edge.

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Sew 1/2″ along both long edges of the lining.

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Fold the bottom edge of the lining to find the center. Mark with a pin 2 1/2″ on either side.

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Stitch 1/2″ seam along the bottom edge of the lining leaving the 5″ opening. Back stitch at both edges of the opening.

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9. Boxing the Corners: Fold the corner of the bag so that the seams align. One seam allowance will go one way while the other goes the other way. You can feel when the seams lock.

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Mark 3″ down from the seam intersection.

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Stitch along the marked line.

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Repeat for all corners.

10. Finishing the Bag: Flip the bag right side out through the hole in the lining. Press the top edge neatly so that the lining doesn’t show.

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Topstitch the top edge of the bag.

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Stitch the opening in the lining closed and you’re done!! Thanks to my sweet friend Lori for posing with the bag!

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xo LC

Botanics Love

I’m totally in love with Botanics by Carolyn Friedlander! I had a little mini charm pack of it and stitched up this.
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I was plotting a tote, so I stitched up some straps. I bought some (p)leather straps from Mulberry Silks in Chapel Hill. And I’ve long been a hoarder of ribbon, so l lined the straps in ribbon. The ribbon was fairly thin so I did four lines of stitching with Sulky 12 wt.
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Luckily my Botanics yardage arrived so I had lining and fabric for a pocket! This line is fabulous!!

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I’m wanted a tote that was polished and neutral. You can never have too many totes.

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I quilted the pocket for a little extra stability! And actually remembered a label:)

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I did more straight line quilting on the outside. I used Robert Kaufman yarn dyed linen with the Botanics. This is the back.

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The straps turned out great! I’m going to need more of that (p)leather!

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Quilty close up! Quilted with aurifil 50 wt.

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I used lots of different feet on this project!

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I did piping up the side a la Carolyn’s Botanic tote. Love the pop of color!

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One more glamour shot from the top of the mountain!

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xo LC