Lucky Project Bags TUTORIAL

Today is my stop on the Lotta Jansdotter Lucky blog tour with Windham Fabric! I really liked this line when I saw it at market. Lotta’s prints are always bold and the scale of these will work well for patchwork. There’s a great cat print in the line as well if you’re a cat lover. (Don’t tell Mack the Chihuahua!) Since I’m dying to use these for patchwork, I obviously decided make project bags for my project. No really, I decided on project bags because I’ve been waiting on a fabric that I knew I would still love in a year. These colors are my happy place. I’m giving away a bundle of this awesomeness on Instagram so head over there to enter!

ProjectBags

I decided on the size so they would fit in my Ikea Raskog cart. They would be pretty easy to adjust the size on if you’re so inclined. How perfect are these fabrics?!

IMG_3003

I mixed in bright contrasting zippers.

IMG_3005

The labels are written with Frixion pens so they can easily be ironed off and a new label written.

IMG_3001

I was supplied a fat quarter bundle of these beauties, so I first paired them off to my liking. I played with them for quite a while before I chose this.

Finished size: 11 1/2 x 10 1/2″. Read all directions before beginning any project!

1. Supplies: You need two fat quarters (one for exterior and one for lining), a 13 x 20″ piece of Pellon Fusible Fleece, a 4 x 4″ piece of neutral, a 4 x 4″ piece of Pellon SF101, a 6 1/2 x 12 1/2 piece of clear vinyl (vinyl cutting tips here) and a 14″ zipper. Aurifil 40 wt is recommended. I made five project bags at once using five times the supplies; this is a great project to do as an assembly line making multiples.

2. Fusing & Cutting: Fuse the Fusible Fleece to the exterior fat quarter. (Fuse lightly before you cut your pieces. Once you’ve cut, you can remove the interfacing from unused pieces and thoroughly fuse the pieces you are using.)

Cut one 12 1/2 x 12 1/2″ piece and one 12 1/2 x 3 1/2″ pieces from the exterior interfaced fabric. Fuse thoroughly.

IMG_2913

Cut one 12 1/2 x 12 1/2″ piece, one 3 1/2 x 12 1/2″ piece and two 1 3/4 x 11 1/2″ pieces from the lining.

IMG_2916

Fuse the SF101 to the 4 x 4″ neutral square. Trim to 3 1/2 x 3 1/2″.

You should have all these pieces.

IMG_2910-0

3. Making the Tabs: Finger press the piece in half. Open back up and finger press in 1/4″ along the edges as shown.

Press these seams in place.

Topstitch along the edges as shown.

4. Attaching the Vinyl: Take the large exterior piece and large lining piece and sandwich the vinyl in between as shown. The 12 1/2″ edge of the vinyl should be along the edge.

Use wonder clips as pins will damage vinyl.

Stitch a 1/4″ seam. Neither your presser foot or the feed dogs are interacting with the vinyl which will make it much easier!

Repeat these steps with the 3 1/2 x 12 1/2″ pieces on the other edge of the vinyl. Make sure to put your exterior and lining fabrics on the same sides. This is what you should have!

IMG_2919

Topstitch along the edge of the fabric.

Place the folded tab on the right edge as shown. Wonder clip in place. Turn so the vinyl is on top. It is easier to stitch with the vinyl on top. Stitch in place with a 1/4″ seam.

5. Attaching the Zipper: Place the zipper right sides together with the 12 1/2″ edge of the exterior fabric opposite the vinyl. Make sure the lining fabric is out of the way. Stitch using your zipper foot. Note that you are stitching on the back of the zipper.

Bring the edge of the lining fabric to the other side of the zipper so that the exterior and lining fabric are right sides together with the zipper in between. All the vinyl and other pieces will be in the middle as shown.

IMG_2926

Stitch just slightly to the left of the previous seam.

Turn it right sides out.

It will look like this.

IMG_2930

Topstitch along the edge of the fabric by the zipper.

Place the 3 1/2 wide exterior piece right sides together along the unsewn edge of the zipper.

IMG_2932

Attach using your zipper foot.

Unzip the zipper. Bring the 3 1/2 lining piece up and finger press a 1/4″ seam.

Pin it along the top edge of the seam concealing the seam. Make sure the lining fabric is flat and does not pucker.

Pin the complete edge. Turn the piece right side out so the exterior is on top.

Topstitch along the fabric edge by the zipper attaching the lining at the same time. It’s awkward because the other side of the zipper is still attached, so pull it to the top left as shown to insure that you don’t sew over it.

You should have this.

IMG_2940

6. Forming the Bag: Turn the bag wrong sides out.

IMG_2941

Pin the open edge of the zipper together. Fold about 3/4″ above the zipper and wonder clip the edge. Keep the zipper unzipped.

You should have this. You will have to insure that both sides lay flat as there are a lot of layers.

Stitch a 1/2″ seam along the edge. Sew with the vinyl on top as it is easier.

Leave long tails at the top and bottom to knot. (Backstitching causes bulk that makes turning the piece more difficult.)

You should have this!

IMG_2946

7. Covering the Seam Allowance: Trim 3/8″ from the seam for a clean edge.

You’ll be cutting off the zipper in the process.

You should have this.

Take the remaining two pieces of lining fabric and make double fold tape. Fold in half and press, then fold in the two edges to the middle and press concealing all raw edges.

These pieces will cover the seam allowance.

Wrap around the edge and hold in place with wonder clips. Fold in the ends as shown to conceal all the raw edges.

It should look like this.

Clip in place.

Repeat for both edges.

I replaced the clip with a pin just before I stitched so that I could sew right up to the pin.

Stitch along the edge of the wrap.

Again leave a long tail so that it can be knotted on both ends.

You should have this!

IMG_2962

8. Finishing the Bag: Turn it right side out.

IMG_2963

And you’ll have this!

IMG_2964

If your vinyl got a little beat up, you can lay a protective piece over it and hit it briefly with a medium heat iron.

IMG_2965

Use a frixion pen on the labels.

And you can erase it with an iron. Don’t accidentally hit the vinyl with your iron!

Voila! All packed and ready for stitching!

I made five and I already need five more!

xo LC

Terrific Tip Tuesday: Ironing Vinyl

TerifficTip

It’s time for another Terrific Tip! I love to use vinyl for bags, but it’s nearly impossible to store without it getting a little beat up. Those wrinkles can be frustrating and lead to a lot of waste if you try to cut around them. I’ve found that if I set my iron to a low to medium heat and lay a piece of fabric on the vinyl, I can gently iron out the wrinkles. It doesn’t take much!! Once it heats up, it flattens out.

IMG_2863-0

Here are the results! Works like a charm.

IMG_2864

 

xo LC

Terrific Tip Tuesday: The Review Link Up & GIVEAWAY

TerifficTip

Can you believe that it’s been a YEAR of Terrific Tip Tuesdays?! I can’t! I have been debating what to do to celebrate the year and here it is! I’ve pulled all the posts into one post and organized them by topic. It’s sort of a one stop shop of tips! I edited them down to a brief snippet and photo, but if you want to read the whole tip, just click on the date.

I’ve also put a link up option so that you can share your tips! There are so many great ones out there, so link up with posts old and new. I’m also going to have a little giveaway next Tuesday. If you link up this week, you’re entered. International welcome! Enter as often as you like. Mack will choose a few winners using the random number generator. I’ll leave the link up open through the next year so that we can fill this post with tips!

BAG MAKING
May 20, 2014: I place washi on vinyl approximately where I need to cut. It’s much easier to see! Then I can cut without trying to figure out where the vinyl is. It also keeps it from sliding!

20140521-000229-149168.jpg

August 12, 2014: I don’t love turning out the corners. There are tons of tools; I’m a fan of the skewer myself. My solution, dampen the corner! You don’t need to soak it, just slip it under the faucet for a second. Wet fibers are more pliable. But this can work both ways, don’t jam your seam ripper in there and accidentally rip a hole! You’ll be able to work out your corner easily once it’s wet.

IMG_5842-2.JPG

September 16, 2014: Towards the end of bag making, you usually have to sew the lining to the outside with a hole for turning inside out. Sometimes one might forget and sew the whole thing closed by accident. I pin all my pins perpendicular to the edge of the fabric, except a horizontal pin to note the “do not sew” area.

IMG_6922.JPG

September 24, 2014: I really like the look of leather handles and love to use the ones that come prepunched. These need to be hand stitched to attach. Because the pressure points on handles are at the top, I like to start at the bottom and sew one stitch on the right, then one stitch on the left and keep going back and forth. The back will look like shoelaces. This provides reinforcement.

IMG_7014.JPG

September 30, 2014: This tip is from Sara Lawson of Sew Sweetness. When you have loads of interfacing and you’re sewing a corner, clip out the bulk as you would in garment sewing. So simple, but it makes all the difference!!

IMG_7149.JPG

CUTTING & MARKING
April 6, 2014: If you like to paper piece, you know you have trim up the paper when you’re done with the block. But you also know that using your rotary on paper will dull the blade. So label a second rotary with a P and put your dull fabric blade on it. Each time the fabric rotary gets a new blade, the paper rotary gets the old blade. (And the old paper blade goes in the trash!) If you don’t have two rotary cutters, just put a P on the old blade with a sharpie and switch out the blade when you’re cutting paper.

20140408-172556.jpg

April 22, 2014: When I cut the same length over and over, I mark my ruler with washi. It comes off easily when I’m done and no residue! I mark a smidge past the line so I can still use the line for alignment.

20140422-123505.jpg

December 9, 2014: In order to sew accurate half square triangles and flying geese, it’s important to start with a well marked square. I place my pen in the corner and align the ruler next to it. This puts the ruler in the right spot, so that the line goes to the corner and not next to it. I draw the line starting in the middle and going out. This keeps the fabric from bunching. Draw slowly and carefully. Perfect! But if it’s not, don’t be afraid to erase and try again.

IMG_8072.JPG

FINISHING
May 27, 2014: I love stripe binding! I really like the pattern to align on my stripes as misaligned stripes are quite distracting. I start with my two pieces of binding. Then I take one piece and press a 45 degree angle. I’ve already removed selvages. Align the pressed seam to the pattern of the other piece. It’s practically camouflaged! Although full disclosure, this print has a hand drawn aspect that makes a perfect match impossible. Sew along the line that you pressed.

20140527-122233-44553208.jpg

June 17, 2014: Today’s tip is labels!! They not only offer a polished finish to your project, but also mark the maker. I order from Spoonflower. They’re a great company right here in North Carolina. I just uploaded my logo and set it to repeat. For my pouches and other small projects, I order a fat quarter of twill. My logo is approximately 1 1/4″ wide with plenty of white space above and below. For my quilts, I ordered the Kona cotton base cloth. It’s machine washable. My logo is about 2 1/2″ and I added three faint grey lines for my additional information. I label my quilts with the name, recipient, piecer, quilter and date.

20140617-225419-82459573.jpg

July 22, 2014: Washing quilts can be a real nail biter. You’ve put so much work and love into your quilt, and the idea of color bleeding everywhere makes your stomach turn. The answer…color catchers! They’re found with detergent and dryer sheets at most grocery stores/superstores and often at your LQS. You can reuse them until they’ve turned black. If I have a quilt with lots of brights, I’ll throw in multiple color catchers to ensure no bleeding. I always wash my quilts with them, even after the first washing. When you transfer your quilt to the dryer, add a few tennis balls and it will help the quilt dry fluffy. It will also sound like there’s a marching band in your dryer, so don’t panic!

20140722-084938-31778957.jpg

July 29, 2014: My quilty buddy Dana offered this guest tip! When she makes binding, she makes one whole yard, regardless of what the pattern calls for. That way, she has plenty of already made binding ready for her small projects! So no need to calculate!! Plus, you’ll always have enough binding!

20140729-164756-60476337.jpg

October 7, 2014: Tips on squaring a quilt. I put a chair next to my cutting table to hold the bulk of the weight. You don’t want anything pulling and stretching. Use two rulers: your largest square and you longest rectangle. I start by lining up the square in a corner and trimming. Then I switch to the rectangle. I constantly check the lines of the ruler to make sure they’re “square” with seams in the quilt. I line the ruler up with at least 6″ of already cut area; this keeps me square. When you get to the next corner, switch back to the square and repeat the process.

IMG_7181

November 25, 2014: When you’re free motioning (or when you run out of thread in the middle of topstitching), you need to bury your threads. Often times, these are not nice long tails, they’re scraggly short pieces of thread. The best solution: self threading needles. I love these by Merchant & Mills that I picked up at Modern Textiles. Basically, in lieu of threading the eye, you pop the thread in through the tension points on the tip of the needle. They’ll change your life.

IMG_7974.JPG

January 13, 2015: What to do when the thread is short and you’re trying to bury it?! The answer is to go ahead and stitch your needle. Once your needle is in place, simply thread it. You’ll want to use a self threading needle for smooth sailing.

IMG_8761.JPG

February 10, 2015: When marking binding, The Guru marks the mitered line to sew on. Sometimes it’s hard to see where the other corner is when marking, so lay your piece near the edge (not at the edge) to use that as a guide.

(null)

HAND STITCHING
April 15, 2014: I also use washi to mark my binding as I’m working on it. I stick the needle in to take a break and tape over it with washi. It makes it easy to find my spot and protects the needle from sliding out. AND residue free!

20140415-140903.jpg

April 22, 2014: This week I found myself binding while I was out and about. My whole world is covered in thread, so it doesn’t bother me at home. But out in the (nonsewing) world, I try not to leave a trail of thread. Insert the wonderful world of washi! One upside down piece of washi and I was in business.

20140422-131013.jpg

August 26, 2014: We are back with another Carolyn guest post, hand sewing style. When you’re stitching, it’s best to thread the end of the thread that you pulled off the spool first and knot the end you pulled off last. The thread is less likely to knot up on you. Also, this way, you’re stitching in the same direction that the thread came off the spool.

IMG_6064.JPG

LABELING
March 4, 2014: The hardest thing about sampler quilts is managing all the little pieces and still piecing efficiently. Making them one by one would take forever. So, I started numbering my blocks. First I made little numbers on cardstock. As I cut, I pile all my pieces for each block and then the number on top. When I go to sew, I sew through the number first and then piece as much as I can for that block. Don’t cut them apart! Then press them. The number is still sewn to it so you know what block it is. Some of these blocks require multiple trips to the sewing machine and iron; the numbers are there the whole time.

20140304-082214.jpg

March 25, 2014: Today, I’m showing you how I use numbered pins to not only keep my rows in order, but also to show me which way to press. I use them to keep both individual blocks and rows in order. Then, I point the pin in the direction I need to press.

20140324-192009.jpg

January 27, 2015: Today’s terrific tip is brought to you by my buddy Dana, of Old Red Barn Co. She uses pins to mark her rows by placing the number of pins for that row. Five pins means row five.

(null)

ORGANIZING
March 18, 2014: Does your machine ever bounce when you sew? It makes me crazy when mine does that. And I like to sew fast. So you just take a piece of foamy shelf liner and put it beneath your machine. Since bouncing tends to be a real problem on fold up tables, I like to take a piece to class and on retreats!

Screen shot 2014-03-18 at 1.57.02 PM

April 22, 2014: One unfortunate side effect of sewing among other sewists is losing your tools. Lots of us have the same tools and washi is cuter than sharpie!!

20140422-131451.jpg

May 6, 2014: It’s unsafe to throw a rotary blade in the trash. It’s unsafe at home but it’s REALLY unsafe when you’re at a retreat or taking a class. Since we all have washi in our sewing kits (right?!), just tape it to some scrap paper. It’s much less likely to injure anyone! All the same rules apply to needles! Just fold a piece of washi around the tip!

20140506-201838.jpg

May 13, 2014: I write in my own selvage on interfacing. I found when I pinned on the label, they always became separated. I also toss the directions. Using google on my smartphone is WAY faster than me hunting down the directions. Make sure your label is detailed with the name, brand and weight if it’s not something you use often. I also create a selvage for my solids by labeling the brand and color. I keep a micron pen in my bag so I can label it when I buy it. I label every 6-8″.

20140512-172710.jpg

June 3, 2014: Packing up quilting is always rough. I always end up with one suitcase of clothes and seventeen bags of sewing loot! One thing that’s stressful to pack is already pressed blocks. Who wants to press twice?! Gasp! So I Saran Wrap the blocks to a square ruler. Keeps them flat & happy!

20140603-083623-30983251.jpg

October 14, 2014: Today’s tip is courtesy of Lynn at The Little Red Hen. It was originally spotted on Instagram and she was kind enough to let me share it here! You know those Aurifil boxes that hold twelve spools of thread. Well once you’re done with the thread, look what they’re perfect for!! They can hold machine feet (Lynn is a fellow Bernina lover), bobbins and other notions!

IMG_7260.JPG

November 4, 2014: I like to mass make binding. This relates heavily to my quest to immediately finish a quilt the EXACT moment I finish quilting. So I needed the perfect storage spot and I had these cool antique spools that The Guru gave me that I stole from The Guru’s house. Let me tell you how handy it is when you’re attaching binding…you can put the spool on your thread stand and unwind it as you attach it!

IMG_7693.JPG

December 2, 2014: My trim drawer was a disaster. So, I cut a few comic book boards in half lengthwise and wrapped the trim. Organized and nice to look at!

IMG_8088.JPG

OTHER TIPS
March 11, 2014: Here’s a tip to get a clean edge. I like to machine piece the wedges and then hand appliqué the Dresden plate down. Using your 1/4″ foot, start sewing about 1/2″ from the edge using back stitch. When you get to the edge, begin stitching forward to the bottom of the wedge. Your thread tails will be 1/2″ from the edge and you’ll have a clean edge for appliqué! This is a great technique any time you don’t want your thread tails peeking out.

20140311-153557.jpg

April 29, 2014: Belt in your baby!

20140429-082916.jpg

August 5, 2014: Use Fray Check BEFORE you cut. This will keep the buttonhole looking perfect!

20140805-122640-44800621.jpg

October 21, 2014: Need to pack A LOT of quilts? The best method…the big roll. First I laid them out flat on top of one another. I put a large one folded in half on the top and bottom with all the babies in the middle. Then I rolled them onto an upholstery roll. I tied them off with strips of fabric.

IMG_7479.JPG

November 18, 2014: No one likes to poke their finger with a pin (or worse yet, sew over their finger), but it is so much worse when your blood gets on your fabric! I’ve found my words get less and less PG the bigger the mess. The best way to clean it, spit on it. Your spit gets out your blood. I’m sure there’s a fancy scientific reason that this works, but details aren’t important. It works.

bloodyfinger

 

December 30, 2014: Our tip is from Shirley Bailey of Sew Original. Imagine that you want to make covered cording with no seam, for a strap or tie or something like that. You cut your cording twice as long as you need it with a few extra inches. Sew your bias fabric around the cording as shown. Bias is key to success and it should be the finished length with an extra inch or two. Sew across the fabric and cording in the middle as shown. Now, you skunch (technical term) the fabric. It’s hard to get over the hump, but once you do, smooth sailing.

IMG_8131.JPG

PHOTOGRAPHY
September 2, 2014: For me, one of the best steps in laying out a quilt is putting all the blocks on the design wall. I want the right balance of color and value. Plus, I want my favorite blocks to shine. A great way to double check is turn the photo into a black and white image. (Or on my iPhone, I just take another picture in black & white.) This really shows the values and I can move around anything that seems off. It’s a great way to check your choices. I also use this trick when I’m choosing fabrics, especially if value is important.

IMG_5783.JPG

October 31, 2014: This is a display/photo shoot tip. I discovered these little bendy things at Home Depot. They’re technically called rubber reusable twist ties and come in multiple sizes. They look like this and are very pliable.

IMG_7605-1.JPG

February 3, 2015: Take your picture outside on an overcast day. Even light looks better than sharp shadows. Before 10 am and after 4 pm are good times. A day with little wind is great. Images taken at these times require less correction. This is an untouched image taken at 4:30 pm on an overcast day. Style your picture. Are there things that should be edited out? If it’s not contributing to your image, get rid of it. Close ups are great! We sure spend a lot of time quilting, show it off!

IMG_7434.JPG

PILLOWS
March 3, 2015: When you buy Poly-fil, you have to work with it or it’s lumpy. Start by pulling out a lump, and pull it apart at least three times. Keep pulling until you get little pieces and then put those in the pillow bit by small bit. This leads to a lump free pillow every time! If you still have lumps, pull it apart more.

IMG_9855.JPG

PRESSING
July 1, 2014: The appliqué pressing sheet is magical! Basically you can layout all your pieces and press them to one another on this sheet. The back layer doesn’t stick and then you can transfer all the pieces to your project. I know…it’s genius!

20140701-094534-35134864.jpg

July 8, 2014: Sometimes you need to press something, but you don’t want to literally press it flat. This can be true of certain textiles such as seersucker. But for me, it’s always my embroidery projects. They’ve been stuffed in a bag and wadded up for years stowed neatly for a few weeks with minor fold lines and I want to press them without flattening the stitching. There are fancy pressing cloths for this, but nothing works better than a washcloth! Keeps the stitches “safe” and the fabric pressed!

20140708-061151-22311203.jpg

July 15, 2014: I love the feel of perfectly pressed fabric! It is easier to cut which makes it easier to piece and ultimately means a better result. If you spray your starch (or starch alternative or water or whatever you use) onto the back of the fabric, it will permeate the fabric. Then you press from the top. If you do spray from the top, the starch/starch alternative/water will mostly evaporate without permeating the fabric. It makes sense and when I tested the theory, it proved true!

20140715-145855-53935143.jpg

January 6, 2015: When you’re sewing a triangle to the corner of a larger square or rectangle, you mark a diagonal line and sew along the line. Don’t trim yet! Use the corner to line up your corner as you press.

IMG_8711.JPG

SEAM RIPPING
February 18, 2015: Nobody likes to unsew. Nobody. Unfortunately, it happens to all of us. So, here’s the proper way. First off, ripping isn’t involved. Gently break every 3-5 stitches on one side. Turn to the other side and give the thread tail a tug. Voila!

(null)

STITCHING
April 1, 2014: You know when you’re using a specialty stitch and you get everything all set up and then you try to take notes on all the settings, but your notes don’t make sense the next day?! It used to happen to me a lot, then I started taking a phone picture of my settings. Works like a charm! And if you’re like me, it’s also possible that you’d forget to change the settings as well, so I use the post it system for that! I stick a post it with CHANGE SETTINGS to the front of my machine. A simple reminder!!

20140331-091941.jpg

September 9, 2014: Sometimes things work to where one (or both) of your fabrics need to be a bit scant. You might be trying to keep a point on your triangle or you could just be a tiny bit shy of having a large enough piece of fabric. Shortening your stitch length is a great idea to add stability to the scant seam. I shorten mine to about 2.0. (I normally sew at 2.5.) This will get you the result you want without weakening the quilt top.

IMG_6587.JPG

January 20, 2015: I’m not much for pressing seams open. That said, there are certainly times when you need an open seam. If you lower your stitch length for an open seam, it will be much stronger. There will be more stitches per inch. I sew on a Bernina and my typical setting is 2.4-2.6. When I’m pressing my seams open, I use 1.8-2.0.

IMG_8953.JPG

THREAD
April 15, 2014: You know how unruly monofilament and transparent thread can get. It begins to unravel the moment you open the plastic. I use washi to tape the end to the bottom. Washi doesn’t leave a gross sticky residue like most tapes would! You can actually tape directly to the thread on the spool and stay residue free.

20140415-135515.jpg

June 10, 2014: Where to put the thread on your machine? Most machines are designed with at least one vertical spool holder and one horizontal spool holder. Thread that is wound with a pattern (like Aurifil) works well on either spool holder. However, thread that is wound straight (like Sulky and YLI) needs to be on the vertical spool holder. This will make for much happier thread which means smoother tension and less breakage.

20140610-225120-82280206.jpg

June 24, 2014: This one is for the preservation of your machine. When you’re going to rethread your machine, clip the thread at the top and pull from the bottom so that the thread moves through the machine in the direction that it’s designed to travel. The discs that the thread travels through control your tension. Repeatedly pulling thread backwards through them causes damage. This is bad. Be kind to your machine!

20140624-221445-80085383.jpg

August 19, 2014: When you put your thread on your machine horizontally, it’s best to put it where the thread comes over. And if you use Aurifil, you can remove the bottom cap and move it! That way, you’ll be able to get the thread the right way.

IMG_6129.JPG

December 23, 2014: As the spool gets low, sometimes it decides to be noisy. (And super annoying, but maybe that’s just me.) Slip a straw, cut to size, on your thread holder and put the thread on top. Enjoy the sound of silence!

IMG_8336.JPG

xo LC



Winners!

We have a winner! Well, two actually. Thanks to everyone that entered my Lunch Time Tote GIVEAWAY! I hope y’all were all able to check out my tutorial on Ellison Lane. The first number that Mack the Chihuahua selected (using random.org) was lucky number 18!

20130926-141730.jpg

Shanna wrote this sweet comment! Since we picked her name first, she’ll receive her first choice, the Tula Full Moon Forest!

20130926-141740.jpg

The second winner is number 135!

20130926-141751.jpg

Diana was also kind enough to say she’d love either prize:) She will receive the vinyl supplies for the lunch tote!

20130926-141801.jpg

Congratulations to you both!!
xo LC